Surfing giant, Wipeout Nazare.

Last Year

I lived one of the worst situations ever in Nazare, when I was towed by the master Alemao de Maresias. I wanted to be steep and deep on the first wave, but with so many jetskis in front of me, living a wake on my way in the bottom of the wave, I ended up going down and getting caught by the avalanche of white water. When this happened I didn’t have time to remove my feet from the straps, twisting the board in multiple directions, hurting my knees and hip, and getting a concussion once the board hit my forehead. But the fight was just beginning. I had to deal with endless seconds under the water full of turbulence, fighting to get a breathe, wave after wave. When everything was over, I was the happiest man on earth to be alive.

• Wave
• Brazil